The colonization of the New World changed the foods we eat today.
A pre-contact diet consisting of game meat, fruits, and vegetables was transformed over time: corn became overtaken by flour, and pork and cattle became the primary sources of meat.
Texas Public Radio examined indigenous foodways during a Great SA panel discussion on Nov. 8 moderated by TPR’s Norma Martinez.
Ramón Juan Vásquez, a member of the Tāp Pīlam Coahuiltecan Nation, and executive director for the American Indians in Texas at the Spanish Colonial Missions, said indigenous foods varied from region to region, and corn is often mistaken as an original staple of South Texas.
“Corn wasn’t a staple until it was brought through the missionization process. Prior to that, the staples were mesquite … pecan, cactus,” he said. “It’s like everybody now is starting to recognize the importance of indigenous foods.”
Adán Medrano, a San Antonio chef, writer, and director of the 2021 acclaimed documentary, Truly Texas Mexican, was one of the panelists.
He says Texas-Mexican cooking — not to be mistaken with Tex-Mex — is an extension of indigenous food and ingredients.
“Our food is (a) long continuation today of the first people to step on Texas soil,” he said. “We are that tradition; roasting, using chiles, using mesquite. This is our food.”
Other panelists include San Antonio natives Rebel Mariposa, founder of La Botánica, the first vegan restaurant in Texas to open with a full bar and venue, and Christine Ortega, a businesswoman who created cultural programming on public television.
Listen to the second part of the conversation about the Native American influence on South Texas cuisine on Dec. 8.
View video of the event below:
