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Fronteras: ‘It’s part of the DNA of Texas’ — A deep dive into Asian American influence on South Texas cuisine

From Tex-Mex to Polish and Native American influences, food in South Texas is a blend of various cultures.

Texas Public Radio examined the Asian American influence on food in San Antonio and the region during a Great SA panel discussion on May 22, marking Asian American Pacific Islander Heritage Month.

The conversation was moderated by TPR’s Marian Navarro.

Monica Perales, historian and associate vice provost at the Institute of Texan Cultures at the University of Texas at San Antonio, was one of the panelists.

She said the history of Asian American food in Texas is a crossroad that can be traced back to the 19th century when Chinese immigrants worked on the railroads.

“People from various Asian backgrounds have had an influence on the culinary traditions of this region in different ways,” she said. “As entrepreneurs, as makers of food, as cooks, as business owners, as growers (like) the Japanese rice farmers.”

San Antonio — one of two cities in the United States recognized as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy — is home to dozens of Asian restaurants that have gained national recognition.

Camille De Los Reyes, owner of the Sari Sari Filipino Restaurant Market and Bakery in San Antonio, said cuisines that come from immigrant communities often face backlash for not being “authentic” enough.

She said despite this, she wanted to do what she could to highlight Filipino food in San Antonio.

“It’s difficult to define what (authenticity) means to each individual,” she said. “We’re really trying to make food that might have a little bit of my history, might have a little bit of our tradition, but also (exposes) the nuances that are happening all over the world,” she said. “

Other panelists included chef Leo Davila, owner of the Asian-Latin fusion restaurant Stixs & Stone, and chef Kristina Zhao, the restaurateur behind Sichuan House and DASHI Sichuan Kitchen + Bar in San Antonio.

View video of the panel below:

Norma Martinez can be reached at norma@tpr.org and on Twitter at @NormDog1