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In War-Torn Aleppo, Old Doors That Reflect A Grand Tradition

By Kelly McEvers
Published January 15, 2013 at 10:38 AM CST
The ancient city of Aleppo in northern Syria has been the scene of heavy fighting. Many homes that have survived have inscriptions above the doorways that note the owner has made the pilgrimage of Islam's holiest site, Mecca.
1 of 5  — The ancient city of Aleppo in northern Syria has been the scene of heavy fighting. Many homes that have survived have inscriptions above the doorways that note the owner has made the pilgrimage of Islam's holiest site, Mecca.
The ancient city of Aleppo in northern Syria has been the scene of heavy fighting. Many homes that have survived have inscriptions above the doorways that note the owner has made the pilgrimage of Islam's holiest site, Mecca.
The black stone structure, or Kaaba, at the center of the Sacred Mosque in Mecca is often represented in the drawings.
2 of 5  — The black stone structure, or Kaaba, at the center of the Sacred Mosque in Mecca is often represented in the drawings.
The black stone structure, or Kaaba, at the center of the Sacred Mosque in Mecca is often represented in the drawings.
A pilgrim's doorway in Aleppo.
3 of 5  — A pilgrim's doorway in Aleppo.
A pilgrim's doorway in Aleppo.
Aleppo is Syria's largest city and dates back centuries.
4 of 5  — Aleppo is Syria's largest city and dates back centuries.
Aleppo is Syria's largest city and dates back centuries.
A doorway in Aleppo.
5 of 5  — A doorway in Aleppo.
A doorway in Aleppo.

Aleppo's storied old city, which dates to the 12th century, has suffered much in the fighting between Syrian government forces and rebels over the past few months. But parts of the city remain intact, as I saw on a recent walk through the winding, stone alleys on the way to the front line.

Centuries ago, it took Muslims from this area months in a caravan to make the pilgrimage, or hajj, to Mecca, the holiest site in Islam, which is now part of Saudi Arabia.

The trip was so difficult that pilgrims took burial clothes with them in case they didn't survive. If they did return home, families would organize a grand welcoming party. They would slaughter a sheep and invite relatives and neighbors. The house would be open for three days and nights.

The house would also be decorated, and a stencil would be painted over the door, a mark of honor showing a drawing of the holy stone in Mecca — the Kaaba — and the archways of the Sacred Mosque that surrounds it.

This way, all would know that a pilgrim, or haji, lived in the house. It's a practice that continues today.

Copyright 2020 NPR. To see more, visit https://www.npr.org.

Kelly McEvers
Kelly McEvers is a two-time Peabody Award-winning journalist and former host of NPR's flagship newsmagazine, All Things Considered. She spent much of her career as an international correspondent, reporting from Asia, the former Soviet Union, and the Middle East. She is the creator and host of the acclaimed Embedded podcast, a documentary show that goes to hard places to make sense of the news. She began her career as a newspaper reporter in Chicago.
See stories by Kelly McEvers