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Peru: Ancient Land of Mysteries - Travel Journal: June 16-27, 2010 Journal and Photos by Dan Skinner,
President of Texas Public Radio June 15, 2010 (Tuesday) - In the morning, most of our group gathered at the San Antonio airport for our 11 a.m. flight and the rest joined us at our layover in Houston. From there we flew to Lima, Peru where we arrived around 10:30 p.m. We were met by our Collette travel guide, Kevin Ferguson who gathered our luggage and had them loaded onto the tour bus. It was about a half hour drive to the airport and our guide used the time to give us a basic briefing about the local currency and other pieces of information we needed before the full group briefing tomorrow evening. Most of the other members of the total group are arriving at 4:30 a.m. tomorrow morning so, I’m very pleased with our TPR group travel arrival time this evening. Still, it’s been a full day of travel and I’m looking forward to getting a good night’s sleep. June 16, 2010 (Wednesday) – After breakfast in the hotel, I took the opportunity to exchange some of my money to the local currency. Three sols are roughly equivalent to one dollar. At 9:30 this morning, some of our group took a walk with our Tour Guide, Kevin Ferguson, to Vivanda, (a grocery story) to purchase water and any other supplies people wanted for future use. Along the way we also saw official money changers on the street wearing green jackets to identify them to tourists and others. At 11 a.m. the TPR group met back at the hotel and walked about 15 minutes to Restaurante Huaca Pucllana which is located at site of the Huaca Pucllana Ruins. Laverne Pitts made the arrangements for the restaurant by virtue of a connection with the Culinary Institute of America in San Antonio. The owner opened up the restaurant early just for our group. We were seated outside under a very large awning that was open on one side to provide a view of the ruins that date back to approximately 180 AD.
We walked back to the hotel and arrived just in time to hop on the tour bus for a city tour. We stopped at “Love Park” which overlooks the beach in the Miraflores section of the city. The park features a large sculpture of two lovers embracing and lots of colorful mosiacs.
In addition to the sites that could be seen from the bus, we stopped at the Lima’s immense Plaza de Armas (Plaza Mayor) which is surrounded by majestic cathedrals and historic government buildings. The world cup soccer tournament is taking place and Lima is caught up in the excitement. A huge video screen and sound system was set up so that people gathered in the plaza could watch the matches.
From the plaza we walked to Museo Del Convento de San Francisco (Franciscan Monastery and Museum.). The Monastery was founded in the 16th Century. No photography was allowed at the monastery so I have no pictures to share. The tour included a visit to the catacombs, where priests, royalty and commoners were buried.
When we returned to the hotel we had our welcoming reception and briefing. Evening dinner in the hotel restaurant included Peruvian cuisine, music and demonstrations of traditional dances from different parts of the country including the scissors dance. June 17, 2010 (Thursday) – Today we checked out of the hotel and flew from Lima to Cuzco. Some citizens of Peru are protesting the government’s plans to sell natural gas rights to foreign companies. Due to the potential of protestors blocking roads, our bus was given a police escort into Cuzco, but we did not encounter any problems. After being bussed in from the airport, we walked as a group to the Plaza de Armas, and then went our separate ways to have lunch. A protest group peacefully marched through the plaza during the lunch hour. Throughout the city people dress up in traditional clothing and pose for pictures in exchanges for a tips from tourists.
After lunch we meet back at the hotel for a walking tour of the city. We visited Convento de Santo Domingo which was built on top of some ancient Incan ruins. The convent also provided a great view of the city. We returned to the Plaza de Armas and visited the Cathedral there.
June 18, 2010 (Friday) – This morning we boarded the busses and went to the Saqsaywaman ruins, located on a hill overlooking Cuzco. The ruins date back to 1100 A.D. It was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. Because of its massive, yet precise, stone terraced walls Saqsaywaman is frequently referred to as a fortress, but some historians believe it also contained a sun temple. How the huge stones were cut and lifted into place remains the subject of debate.
Next we went to Q’enqo Temple located nearby. The rocky outcropping was revered by the Incas and it was thought to have mystical powers. The narrow caves were believed to be used for religious observations and funerary rites.
On the way to our next location, we stopped briefly at Ccorao to take in a scenic overlook into a valley between mountains, and then it was on to “Awana Kancha: The Living Museum of the Andes” just outside of Cuzco. This museum featured Llamas and Vicugnas, which our group members were encouraged to feed and pet. The living museum also featured demonstrations of weaving and shops where you could buy clothing, art and jewelry. Awana Kancha is operated as a coop by 420 families representing 14 communities. The money raised through sales is directed back into the community to improve health and education while preserving ancient traditions. After returning to Cuzco, we had the rest of the evening free to explore the city on our own. A group of us had a good dinner at the Inca Grill, located on the Plaza de Armas.
June 19, 2010 (Saturday) – Today we traveled about 50 miles from Cuzco to Aguas Clientes, which is also known as Machu Picchu City. Travelers used to be able to take the train from Cuzco to Aguas Clientes, but during the last rainy season, the tracks were partially destroyed. So, we had to take buses to a temporary railway station located passed the damaged section of track. We were supposed to take our tour busses up to a certain point, and then transfer to designated small “sprinter” busses. We just missed those busses, so we had to take our two tour busses on the narrow roads to the railway station. The traffic was trying to move in both directions, but sometimes it was too narrow and the smaller vehicles had to back up to a wider section to make way. Eventually, we made it to the train station and took the scenic railway to Aguas Clientes which is in a valley surrounded by the steep slopes of the Andes.
We walked from the rail station to the bus station, and then took full sized tour busses up the winding dirt roads to Machu Picchu. The site is located nearly 8,000 feet above sea level and dates back to 1400 A.D. It was later abandoned, became overgrown and largely forgotten except by locals. “The Lost City of the Incas” was rediscovered by the outside world in 1911 by American historian Hiram Bingham. It was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. Situated high in the Andes with no other sign of civilization in site, visiting Machu Picchu was an amazing experience.
The last set of busses left at 5:30 to take visitors down from Machu Picchu. We checked into the Sumaq Hotel, next to the Urubamba River. This evening we were treated to a demonstration of how to make the national drink, Pisco Sour, and the fish dish know as Ceviche. The drink contains Pisco liquor, lemon or lime juice, egg whites, simple syrup, and bitters. Ceviche is made from fresh raw fish marinated in citrus juices such as lemon or lime. Following the demonstration, we had a wonderful dinner at the hotel. June 20, 2010 (Sunday) – This morning we were on our own to explore the city. I walked around, took pictures, purchased some souvenirs then returned to the hotel for a Father’s day lunch with the group. In the afternoon, we checked out of the Sumaq Hotel then had a little time to further explore Machupicchu Pueblo (Aguas Clientes) before meeting up at the Inca Rail station. We took an hour long train ride to the temporary bus station. One of the highlights along the way was seeing Mount Veronica in the distance. We were transported via three small busses back to where our two larger tour busses awaited to take us back to Cuzco. I joined several of the TPR group for a late dinner at a pizza restaurant not far from the Casa Andena hotel.
June 21, 2010 (Monday) – Before leaving Cuzco, we stopped at a Cuzco Market. Most of the people in our group contributed to the purchase of some groceries to give as gifts to the people in the village we would visit next. The tour bus took us on winding dirt roads to the village of Tauca with a population of 100 people next to Lake Piuray. Our travelers were greeted by a trio of musicians and christened with flowers as they stepped off the bus. In the village, we were given demonstrations including shearing the sheep, dying the wool, and weaving them into fabrics. The villagers sang for our group and invited us to dance with them. We also visited their elementary school where the children sang to us and in return we sang “The Farmer in the Dell” to them.
From Tauca, we travelled to Ollantaytambo. There we had lunch at the Blue Puppy Restaurant which is located on the city’s large plaza. The current city and terraces date back to the mid-15th century when the original city was destroyed and rebuilt by the Inca Emperor Pachacuti. The city contains some of the oldest continuously occupied buildings in South America.
After lunch, we visited the ruins that include the massive terraces of Temple Hill topped by a wall of six monoliths. You reach the top of the hill by a stairway through the terraces. The structure is sometimes referred to as a fortress but it is believed that it was primarily used for religious purposes. Incan storehouses are also seen on the mountainside. There is evidence that the structures were also still under construction up until they were abandoned.
As we traveled away from Ollantaytambo, we stopped in Yanahuara at the Descanso aha wasi-inka bar where we were given a demonstration of how Chicha (corn beer) is made. When the beer is ready, the owner of the bar places a broom covered with a red plastic bag outside to alert patrons.
Our next stop was at the Pablo Siminario Pottery Institute. The studio/home/gallery is located near Cuzco. The studio is dedicated to the discovery of techniques and designs from ancient Peruvian cultures and expressing those inheritances in a modern way. The distinctive "Siminario Style" has been described as "Contemporary Pre-Columbian." We were fortunate to have Pablo Siminario speak to our group about his art.
Our busy day ended with dinner at a restaurant on the Plaza de Armas in Cuzco. Entertainment included a Peruvian band and dancers. June 22, 2010 (Tuesday) – Today we had our morning free. I took the opportunity to walk from the hotel to the Plaza de Armas for one last look. Crowds were gathered for the festivities but things were apparently at a lull between activities. I waited around for a while an announcer was hyping the upcoming attractions and music was being played over the loudspeaker system, but no action to see other than watching the crowds as they waited for the next events. I wandered around the area a bit then made my way back to the hotel to meet up with the group shortly after noon. We walked a couple of blocks to where our two buses were parked, loaded up and left around 12:30 for the half hour ride to the Cuzco airport. After checking in and making our way through security, we boarded our 2:30 p.m. flight for Juliaca. The plan was stalled on the tarmac for a while but we eventually took off for our half hour flight. Once we landed, we gathered our bags and were able to be together again on a single bus for the hour long ride to Puno on the Pan American Highway. At Puno, we checked into the Sonesta Posadas del Inca on the shore of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. In the harbor next to the hotel the ship “Yavari” was anchored. It was one of two ships ordered by the Peruvian government in 1861 from a foundry in Birmingham, England. The ship was designed as “kit” to be assembled once it arrived at Lake Titicaca. Each piece could be no heavier than the maximum weight a mule could carry. It took years before all of the parts arrived and the ship was built. Its maiden voyage took place on Christmas day 1870.
At 7:15, we had a group dinner at the hotel. After dinner, before turning in for the evening, a number of us joined our guide Kevin Ferguson for a look at the stars and made special note of the “Southern Cross” constellation. June 23, 2010 (Wednesday) – This morning we left the hotel dock in two tour boats to travel to the Floating Islands of Uros. The islands are made of totora reeds and are anchored to keep them from drifting. The women of the islands dress in colorful costumes and wave to the boats to incite them to visit. We stopped at the Island of San Miguel, which floats over a depth of nearly 60 feet and we were given a history of the islands, learned about island life and how the islands were constructed. Walking on the islands was a unique experience because reed surface was soft and bouncy, kind of like walking on a mattress. We were also provided the opportunity to purchase their handicrafts. Next most of us took rides in reed boats to see the Uros Floating School. The reeds create a cushioned play surface for the students. It was fascinating to learn about life on the islands.
In the afternoon, we visited the Sillistani Chullpas. Sillistani is a pre-Incan burial site on the shore of Lake Umayo not far from Puno. Chullpas are round stone burial structures, some as tall as 40 feet. The inside of the tombs were designed as a symbolic wombs and the bodies were mummified in a fetal position. The burial ritual emphasized the connection between life and death. There are various locations where Chullpas can be found in South America, but those at Sillistani are considered the best preserved.
On the way back to Puno, we stopped at a family farm. They demonstrated how they grow and cook potatoes in addition to weaving rugs for sale. June 24, 2010 (Thursday) – Today was a travel day, we left the hotel at 6:30 a.m. and went to Juliaca to catch our flight to Lima. From Lima we rode our tour bus through the desert along the Pan American Highway to Paracas. We stopped for lunch at El Piloto in Canete, and then continued on to the city of Chincha where we visited the Tabernero Winery/Brewery. We took a tour of their facilities and learned about their wine production. We also visited the area where they distilled liquor. At the end of the tour we tasted various wines and also their Pisco.
We arrived around 6:30 in the evening at our ocean side hotel in Paracas. At 7:30 in the evening we gathered for a group dinner at the hotel. Afterwards I retired to my room to finish unpacking and get ready for tomorrow’s adventure. June 25, 2010 (Friday) – Our tour bus left the hotel at 7 a.m. for Nazca. Nineteen of our 39 travelers opted to take the tour to see the famous Nazca lines. A number of us also opted to pay for the optional fly over in small prop planes so that we could see the lines from the air. The lines represent numerous creatures such as hummingbirds, spiders, monkeys, and geometric patterns as well. Scholars think the lines were created sometime between 400 to 650 A.D. There are numerous theories of how and why the lines were created, but no one knows for sure. The ancient geoglyph’s have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The pilot banked the plane so that passengers on each side were able to get good pictures of the figures. This was good, but it also made the ride a bit of a roller coaster experience. I enjoyed the view but I was also very thankful when we returned safely to the ground.
On the way back to our hotel, we stopped for a wonderful lunch at the Hotel Cantayo. Located in the midst of the desert, the hotel is a lush oasis. Huge trees, flowers, birds, cattle, horses and ostriches were found on the grounds. Our lunch was cooked underground, and before it was unearthed a couple of travelers were recruited to partake in a short ceremony. The ritual involved taking small sips of wine and Pisco, then pouring the rest on the ground. The volunteers also used shovels to symbolically break the ground over the buried food. While the staff of the hotel uncovered the meal we were treated to an equestrian show. During our meal, consumed under the shade of a long covered patio, we were serenaded by a Peruvian Pipe band named “Nanaska.” After lunch, we had a little more time to wonder the grounds before getting back on the bus and making the long trek back to the hotel.
June 26, 2010 (Saturday) – This morning we checked out of our hotel and travelled to see the Ballestas Islands, often referred to as the “Galapagos of Peru.” We were taken by boat to the rocky islands which are home to thousands of sea birds. We saw boobies, pelicans, Humboldt penguins and sea lions. The rocky islands have taken on rugged fascinating shapes with passages, and arches carved by the waves. Many of the islands are topped with “bird by-product.” The guano is allowed to build up for several years and is then harvested for fertilizer.
After our nature tour, we traveled back to Lima, stopping along the way to visit the Sumaqkay weaving studios.Sumaqkay is a quechua word which means "quality and beauty." The workshop is located in San Isidro within the Paracas Reserve. It combines traditional techniques with modern design to create handbags, home décor and clothing. The looms are manually operated. Many of the weavers, both men and women, also work in the nearby fields of various citrus, grape and asparagus plantations.
By evening, we arrived for our farewell dinner at La Rosa Nautica Restaurante. It was built on Pier 4 of the Lima Beach Circuit in 1983. On the pier leading up to the restaurant there are several small shops featuring various art and souvenirs. The food was great and the sound of the waves breaking under the restaurant added a soothing ambience for this celebration of the end of our journey together. We’ve seen wondrous things during our Peru Adventure… Machu Picchu… The Nazca Lines… The Floating Islands of Uros… The Ballestas Islands… and much more.
After dinner, we traveled to the Lima airport to catch our overnight flight to Houston. June 27, 2010 (Sunday) – After making our transfer in Houston and going through customs, we continued on to San Antonio and arrived mid morning. I’m tired, but my mind and camera are filled with many fond memories of our Peru adventure. It was a wonderful trip and I enjoyed experiencing it in the company of our TPR travel group. More information about future trips being offered by Texas Public Radio, please visit our travel page.  |
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